PC Water Cooling

[MadManCK]

My EVO came with a full set of replacement parts. It shows both quality and customer care. On the other hand, they might be needed for a reason. These jet plates look a bit like razor blades. They probably started their original design with those. These replacement parts are not that expensive to send, as it can be done in an envelope. But they will probably box it.

But i do not think the cooling performance of your block would suddenly be so bad. Even if you only let water run through a block with a copper plate, it would already cool your CPU.

So it has to be the cooling paste or the mount has shifted or tilted a bit. You did the naked mounting with delidded CPU? Or is the lid back on it? You might check the paste inside the CPU.

But that all requires disassembling. Unless you can remove the CPU block with the tubes attached to it. Might be worth a try. It can simply be an issue of replacing the cooling paste underneath with a very thin layer of paste.

I simply used the scottish cross method to apply the paste, with a little dot in the middle. That will cover the whole cpu without paste pouring over the edge.

[Beardroid91]

Yea you have been mentioning to the paste every time, but i think it is okay.

But i'll have a look at my thermal paste stash and then do a quick thermal paste swap should be fast enough to do, and then we'll know for sure if it is a bad block or just the paste gone bad.

Time to play with some pastes, hopefully i have some Gelid Extreme left.

[Beardroid91]

I find it strange, but idle temps seems to bit 1-2*c higher, but the load temps is lower than before, but 3-5*c, seems strange, but whatever .. it seems to be working fine now with the idle at 27-28*c and then load at 60-63*c, before it was 26-27*c but load was 65-67*c, but maybe my chip just runs hotter, but i think it would possible get the load temp down abit. (water was 27*c)

Btw it was Thermal Grizzly paste on the chip before, but it had turned into rubber and dried out, and now i have Gelid Extreme on the chip, i put more than enough on so it would spread out, but maybe there is a bed in time on the thermal paste.

[MadManCK]

Around 60 under load is a very good value. Especially with an OC at 4.5Ghz. That block works like a charm.
With new paste the temp spikes have probably gone

Better withdraw that bid and take a shot at the 1070FTW block

[Beardroid91]

Yea i already did, but may still ask EK for a replacement fin-base and jetplates at some point, but yea i guess the temps are fine enough.

Also i doubt the guy would sell his GPU block as his got a monoblock to replace his old CPU block.

But i would love nothing more then getting a GTX 1070 FTW block for my card, but i can't bring myself to buy it at full retail, i hope EK discount it soon, they have a deal on the MSI 1080 blocks those are nearly sold out by now, so hopefully the FTW block is next on the discount list.

[MadManCK]

If you want to stick to Aluminum and can avoid the corrosion by not using various types of metal parts in a single loop, you might be off a lot cheaper. And aluminum is not bad. Most AIO solutions use aluminum radiators anyway.
Advantages are light weight, easy to mount and a lot cheaper than copper based solutions. As copper prizes are going through the roof, Aluminum might be the clever way to go for future water builds.
EK now has a dedicated Aluminum line of water cooling components.






https://www.ekfluidgaming.com/ek-kit-a240g

That whole kit for under 250$ is just awesome.
For both GPU and CPU, i would pick more cooling surface, like at least a 360 rad or an additional 240 or 120.

[Beardroid91]

Yea would Beek the way to go some years ago for me, but it is no option for at this point, as I'm scared shirtless of the galvanic corrosion, you should check out EK'S latest blog post about, mixing any noble metal with aluminum is a big no no, so you need whole new loop setup for aluminum parts, it's like petrol and diesel engine not being able to use the same fuel.

This galvanic corrosion, this was a old CPU blcok, with copper coolplate and the a aluminium frame, then galvanic corrosion has eat the aluminium.



Plus I doubt EK is making a 1080 FTW block for the aluminum series.

Plus is expandability is terrible at the moment but I am few years maybe.

https://www.ekwb.com/blog/aluminium-vs-copper/

[MadManCK]

My Corsair H110 AIO has a copper based cool block/pump combo and an aluminum radiator. It has been cooling the 2700K OC @4.2Ghz for at least 5 years at around 60 degrees under load. It is also filled with pure glycol probably. To prevent any chance on corrosion.

But it is true. Even using the wrong bolts can lead to local corrosion. But once a company like EK goes for all Aluminum components as an option, they will make sure it does not corrode. And that GPU block fits on nearly all Pascal GFX.

Just use a little bit more anti corrosive as usual and you are fine to go. You can see Jason using a slightly larger small bottle to mix with 1 liter of destilled water. And maybe you need to exchange fluids once every year instead of every 2.

Aluminum rads are a lot more easy to work with. And the heat dissipation is roughly the same, maybe 5% less than copper based solutions.

I finished mounting the full cover block and backplate this morning. The copper based, nickelplated backplate also acts like a heat spreader with applied thermal tape.
I used another thermal compound (EK's own) than the Grizzly on the CPU block. I might have to exchange that Grizzly paste in the near future, knowing now that it can cause issues.
EK's tube needed more pressure to start moving, resulting in a big splash of thermal paste on the GPU
I had to remove a bit, but that is certainly enough thermal paste there.

I should have some Gelid somewhere. Once i start to reorganize all the boxes over here, i might find some other useful stuff.

Also the latest packages arrived today, including the 90 degree angled fittings to mount on the reservoir.

[Beardroid91]

I always love the look of the clear EK waterblocks when they are mounted on the graphics cards

Lol EK just opened a can of worms on their Facebook page, posting a EVGA 1080 Ti with a waterblock and stock backplate and thereby confirming that EVGA stock backplates actually work with their waterblocks.

So why pay 31 euros for a useless backplate...

Actually EK should make the backplates out of aluminium to save money as the copper makes it to expensive imo.

[Beardroid91]

Hmm i think i have yet another maybe answer to why my temps seem abit odd, maybe it is because the EK Supremacy Evo cool plate isn't completely flat, so maybe my CPU isn't getting a flat mount so maybe that is why the temps isn't what they could / should be as the chip is only has direct mount in the center of it.

Found this picture of the cooling base.



So i think i'll lap my Supremacy Evo's coolplate next time i do waterloop maintenance, and then i'll swap back to the original IHS mount for the CPU as i dount it can be good for it to be mount this way in the long run.

Also as a side note i was considering the idea of plating the Nickel top for my Supremacy Evo block black as the Nickel doesn't look that good anymore, why not fresh it up, as the Nickel top always looked like the oddball out in my system, but just an idea for to think about for now.