PC Water Cooling

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MadManCK
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Top Radiator is already bolted down with the factory HWLabs bolts. It is the belly Rad that causes me the most headdaches. As i use a 60mm thick radiator, it also has more channels and is therefore bigger and less easy to move into place.

Once i have the case standing up, it will be more easy to reach certain parts. :party:
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Beardroid91 wrote: Sat Jul 15, 2017 6:12 pm

BTW did you not open the CPU block up and change the mounting plate, could just have put it back together misaligned ?
Yes and no. It can only be mounted in one way. But i do not want to open the block again. I was not happy with having to open the block to replace the Intel for the AMD mounting bracket in the first place. But obviously the bracket has the hole a bit off or too much play. It is mounted at the AM4 holes of the motherboard. It sits solid. But with a chromed block, you will see even half a degree offset. :(

I can send EK a pic of it :lol:

Right now i just want to get on with the build. It takes way too long this way.
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After careful examination of the allignment, i have come to the conclusion that the AM4 holes are offset on the ASUS Motherboard. EK stuff looks straight enough. But even the back plate is slightly tilted. And yes, these are the only AM4 holes. AM3 is too far away.

I finally managed to get the bottom radiator mounted. What a hassle that was. I used velcron underneath and bolted the top sides at the rear. It feels very solid. And thanks to the velcron it will also dampen any excessive fan noise. I'm quite happy with this solution, as it is both very sturdy and secure. It will withstand any force applied by waterpumps or movements of the case.

I also found the original bag with all the Cosmos II parts. Keeping it together in one place paid off.

Now i can focus on getting the reservoir into place. I might have to connect all the HDD cables first. i'm thinking about replacing all of them. But that can also be done at a later stage. I still have my 20% discount voucher from Cable Mod. I can use that for a full replacement cable mod kit for the AX1200 and some SATA Cables. Plain Green might be the best.


But right now i will stick to the extender kit for improved visuals, while i try to finish this project. After the waterloop build i still have to do a lot of hard and sofware upgrades, BIOS flashes and not to mention all the games and gear.

But that is a piece of cake compared to the raw building and test fitting. :lol:

:party:
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Beardroid91
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Lol so you are saying Asus messed up drilling the mounting holes for AM4.. LOL that would be a big fail for them as they pride themselves as being number one in motherboards.

You could try the AM3 bracket then ;)

Looking forward to some wet pictures soon :mrgreen:
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MadManCK
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AM3 is the old one. I replaced the bracket with a custom AM4 one from EKWB. I won't change that now, as it would mean disassembling the waterblock again and i don't like that. Besides, it sits tight. But it appears to be an ASUS drilling thing.

Maybe check the web for others who had similar issues. My Mobo was also from the first batch. So it can be an early production thing. I will provide some close up pics later. Not today.

PS You do know how wrong that sounds, the wet picture thingy. I know some models though... :P
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Beardroid91
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MadManCK wrote: Tue Jul 18, 2017 3:35 pmPS You do know how wrong that sounds, the wet picture thingy. I know some models though... :P

I know those too, but wasn't on my mind, but maybe that explains why i sometimes feel shortness of breath when i watch some very well build watercooled pc systems :lol:
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I have to add that adding a larger reservoir will increase the amount of fluid in your loop and therefore it will take longer to reach its operating temperature. And as long as your cooling capacity, radiator surface and fans, is larger than the added heath, it will stay at a low temperature. A larger mass can absorb more energy. It is that simple. But for the working waterloop temperatures it won't matter.

The loop sequence is indeed neglectible, but it can reduce a few degrees in temps if you place a radiator in between components. This has been proven already. But it will never be more than 1-3 degrees. :lol:

I think JayZ2Cents is on the rigth path again after moving to the Studio. Very little build vids en too much studio hassle has cost him a lot of subscribers already.
These myth videos are cool :occasion-snowman:
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Today i continued with the pump/reservoir combo and the HDD mounts.

I mounted the pump/top/res with velcron underneath and bolted it down at the front. Very solid and also dampening. I noticed that the fill opening is right underneath one of the radiator fittings. I might use that in the loop. But than i have to use the pump intake to fill the system up. Or stick to the original plan. I might have to order another 90 degree angle for the radiator in the bottom. Space is very crampy there and i do not think the hose will bend that short. Also i will use the T-splitter as another 90 degree to fill the bottom radiator up and mount the tap for draining.
Rad will be filled bottom to top of course to ease out the air bubbels.

I might order another T-spitter for the temp sensor, as both radiators have only one intake and exit, where i assumed they would have them at both sides. Less intakes also means less points of interest for leaks, so i'm fine with that.

I can also order a quad splitter for the same purpose. I thought i had one somewhere, but can not find it. House still looks like a battle field, but progress has been made.

:party:
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Beardroid91
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Good progress, but that CPU block still looks funky, Asus really mess that up.

Abit to dark, but it is starting to look like a pc. :)

Temp sensors are awesome, i use mine for temperature controlled fans and pump speed it works really well with the Asus software.
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Only other place i can think off, is to replace one of the GPU block stops with the temp sensor. But than i have to camouflage the wires somewhere. Will be hard to achieve.

I do not think there is much difference in filling the reservoir from the top or the intake. I think i will use the intake to fill the system up. I might be able to move the fill hose away a bit afterwards. And i can use the 90 degree fitting from there to use on the bottom radiator. Saving me another shipment fee. I do have a fill port. Not really needed, but it can be sealed off.

The big advantage of doing the loop that way, is that i can use the res top as part of the loop. Only 5 cm tube is needed there and it will be almost straight. That will look nice as well.
And using the pump intake to fill the system will make it a lot more easy to fill it up. I can move it in front of the case. Also reducing the risk of spilling over expensive electrical components. :P
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