PC Water Cooling

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Beardroid91
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Fits nicely, but lol 200mm fan blowing on a radiator that can't be effective :mrgreen:

But you need some bright lights to bring this big black case to life, as it is now it just sucks up all the light, but sure with acid green coolant and lots of RGB effects and the RGB strip you talked about then it would be lit up.

Good thing you didn't go with a bigger reservoir tube, as that one will be as annoying as mine to fill up, i hope you have a filling up bottle for the job or you might need one soon :lol: Something like this one will come in handy any time you fill it up, i have one myself and i couldn't fill up my system without it.

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https://www.highflow.nl/watercooling/wa ... 000ml.html

Also good idea to reverse the flow of air in the basement, as it like you said most likely heat up the PSU/motherboard, but might suck in toasty hot PSU air so maybe not the best performance, but doubt it would matter much.

Would you have the EK Vardar fans as the push fan? As the Vardar fans beat the fancy green LED fans hands down, but they sure as heck isn't pretty but they perform great, and can push air through a brick. :P
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MadManCK
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PSU is mounted with the fan intake down. All the heat is directly dissipated from the case. No worries there. Intake air for the bottom radiator comes through vents in the rear door.
Thermal dynamics is always something to take in consideration with every build. Especially with a more complicated waterbuild like this.

I had to remove the radiator from the bottom. Not an easy task as it barely fits through the opening. I need to drill holes for it in the frame and also above for the res/pump mount. Better to do that without anything pre mounted.

Most components are assembled now. Very little time today to do more work on it.

There will be plenty of light in the case, once everything is connected. The motherboard itself is equipped with RGB lights and the RGB Led strip will be connected as well. In addition to that is the big blue led fan above. There are no green or RGB led fans of that size available right now, but i might exchange that when it becomes available. But TBH, i always liked blue lights in a case. So it will have a kind of sea green vibe with green fluids. The RGB will make me able to change background colors, which will be awesome. Just imagine a red glow with green fluids. Or just white. The case is indeed dark, but the backplate of the GFX waterblock is nickel plated copper. That will also reflect the blue led fan.

The 200mm exit fan i use to blow air through the 240/30 radiator will squeeze the air through the 2 120mm fan holes of the case. That will work as a shroud, tunneling all generated air pressure through the radiator. I'm convinced it will work the same as 2x120mm fans at medium speed. The fan has a triple function. It also acts like an exit fan and it moves air over the critical components of the motherboard, like RAM, VRM and Chipset. I also like these big ass fans :mrgreen:
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Beardroid91
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Lol i just noticed this when i wanted to cool down my pc after some benchmark room heating, and then some the pump was running at 100% speed, then the coolant level in the reservoir level dropped about 5-6mm in the reservoir, so just how much air is still in my system, now i wonder if it is in fact a air pocket in the CPU block that was acting up, but atleast the radiator is free of air, but still 5-6mm in the reservoir is quite abit, but i also noticed the nasty things in the coolant tons of small particles in it, and no not just air bobbles.

2017-06-28 03.20.46.jpg

So maybe time for a clean up and coolant change, plus tubing change, just a shame EK doesn't sell the their new clear tubing in 1m cuts only the 3m packs, and i'm not going to get any more of the primochill crap, and the ZMT is to black for the main loop, so would new a 1m bit of EK clear tubing, but no one sells it. :(

I think i'll try blue coolant next time, EK's CryoFuel navy blue, but who know, no point in thinking about it if i can't get the DuraClear tubing.
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MadManCK
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Just get a 3(m) box. You will have plenty to work with and also enough as spare. :lol:

These particles are no good. Are they a result of that aggressive cleaning fluid? Might be the nickel plating that came loose from the block. If not it is the fluid gone bad.
You will probably have to drain and flush your loop anyway. Grab a 5L destilled water jug at a gas station. And keep flushing until there are no particles left. You know like no other how particles can cloth the small water channels in your block.

These new EK Fluids look very good. :occasion-snowman:

My radiators were already pre flushed by HW Labs, but i blew some compressed air through them just in case.

Later today will be drilling time. Now i need to dress up like a drill Sergeant and yell at everybody :mrgreen:
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Beardroid91
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Lol compressed air is likely to damage the channels, you should just do it the right now and use hot water and white vinegar, let it sit for a bit and then shake it and drain and repeat until the water coming out isn't blue from corrosion anymore, and then flush and shake with hot water 3-4 time after and then it is CLEAN and ready for use, other wise you'll just have issues, you would be surpriced by how much flux was in my HWLaps Nemisis GTX 420 radiator, and they "CLEANED" it at the factory, which is just BS they say.

So no cutting corners on this build, i don't want to hear about how your acid green coolant turned yellow :facepalm:

- - -

Also i think the particles is plastissers from the terrible Primochill red tubing, i already gunked up my CPU block one time before.

Lol only noobs need 3 meter, EK should know that. I would only need 70 cm tubing and then what do i do with the rest of the tubing, it just collect dust for years before i would be changing the tubing again, and by then something new has come along that is better.

But may try to see if i can find some on my use part forum, as someone is likely to have bought 3m of it and only used 1 m of it.
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Unlike other radiators i had, like the Phobya, the HWlabs rads are totally clean.
I will find out soon® enough anyway. Easy drain just in case with ball valve.

Lmao bout the 3m tubing. It is only 17€ for 3m :D

https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-duraclear-9-5-15-9mm

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PS It is kinda disturbing that the Promochill tubing goes that bad. It was highly recommended by various pro-modders and also the No.1 at EK for a while.
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Beardroid91
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Lol it is 18,4 euros and not 17 euros, but that is stil alot when you only need 1 meter and of that 1 meter i only need 65'ish cm as i have 1 meter EK ZMT laying in my box of goodies, and if i bought 3 meter then what do i do with the left over tubing, you'll mostly not need new tubing for 2-3 years, if it is half as good as they say it is.

And yea maybe i just got unlike with the store i bought my tubing from just having gotten a terrible batch of tubing, Primochill had issues some years ago where the platisers gunked up blocks within months etc.

But my Primochill clear turned pink, red gunked up, white less gunked up but full of particles and now red again have have issues. So i'll never buy anything from Primochill, as their tubing is overhypped junk.

Anyway let me know if you have any tubing left xD :P
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Beardroid91
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The new EK CryoFuel blue UV looks very nice 8-)

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MadManCK
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Beardroid91 wrote: Wed Jun 28, 2017 3:56 pm
Anyway let me know if you have any tubing left xD :P
Ha ! Unfortunately that chance is small. Not only will i use a large part for my loop, i will also keep enough for a total replacement. In addition to that i will use a piece of tube for filling and draining with a barb fitting. I will mount a fill port to that on the other side and secure that to the case for filling. I have a simple funnel to fill the loop.
But i will keep it in mind.

PS That blue fluid looks pretty cool as well. I used to have Feser UV Blue in my previous water loop. Looked pretty similar.
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Beardroid91
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Hehe never mind was meant most as a joke ;) Btw, why not use the more flexible 13/10 tubing for the drain and filling as the 16/10 isn't flexible for that kind of use, but maybe it could be if the DuraClear is as flexible as the ZMT.

Might end up getting 1 meter of Masterkleer 16/10 clear tubing, they claim to be platiser free and wont get foggy with time, and i can get it at my Danish retailer.

So may get a bottle of blue CryoFuel weird but cool name and then the tubing and use my EK ZMT tubing i bought for the last upgrade to the loop but thought it would be to block and boring at the time, but the black ZMT is perfect for the steathy return runs like i have it in my system.

But i think the clear up for parts could take awhile so might just time everything out and out the Intel stock cooler on my CPU and underclock it to 3 or 3,5 ghz so it doesn't go ballistic with high temps.

And i can then take my time and clean everything the right way, i think my radiator needs as a good vinegar shake and clean to get the nasty bits out.

But i don't know enough about Masterkleer tubing to commit to buying it yet, so need to check up on it abit more.
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