PC Water Cooling

A new rig to show off or just want help with the latest Tech, if it’s for PC this is the place.
User avatar
Beardroid91
Hot Wheels
Hot Wheels
Posts: 4411
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 5:38 pm
Location: Denmark

MadManCK wrote:I'm thinking of clear tubing, medical grade. These do not give off particles in the loop. And they are only marginally more expensive.
That could be great too, btw. is it the TYGON tubes you mean ?

I'll used EK's Black 16/10mm ZMT tubing as it is a joy to work with, the other Primochil tubes need to be heated up in hot water before you can get them on the fittings.

Btw. i'm looking forward to seeing your build soon, or the plans for it so we can make sure it is the right stuff you get the first time ;)
User avatar
Beardroid91
Hot Wheels
Hot Wheels
Posts: 4411
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 5:38 pm
Location: Denmark

Btw i just got the idea to look for motherboard slot covers and they seem to be a thing, might get some black ones for my red PCI slots and ram slots to make a black 'n red ROG mobo fit in a black 'n white build ;)

Image
Image
User avatar
MadManCK
Admin
Admin
Champion
Champion
Posts: 14086
Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:17 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Contact:

TYGON® are indeed one brand that makes them. And they are compatible with water cooling equipment.

These black covers look badass. I had some blue fluo ones a while back to cover empty slots in a previous build, but that was a bit cheesy. With Blacklight neons (CFL) in that case everything lit up like a christmas tree as the tubes were also UV reactive. :lol:
PC Player Image TDU, GRID, Assetto Corsa, pCars, NCG, The Crew, Dirt, Forza: MadManCK Clubs: TDU2: Luny's Fair Friends (VP-Exec), GRID AS: TDUDT (Pres) DT-Racing Team: Team Leader

Image Eden Games Can Kiss My Mustang
User avatar
Beardroid91
Hot Wheels
Hot Wheels
Posts: 4411
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 5:38 pm
Location: Denmark

MadManCK wrote:TYGON® are indeed one brand that makes them. And they are compatible with water cooling equipment.

These black covers look badass. I had some blue fluo ones a while back to cover empty slots in a previous build, but that was a bit cheesy. With Blacklight neons (CFL) in that case everything lit up like a christmas tree as the tubes were also UV reactive. :lol:
Guess that was from the midlife crises :lol:

http://www.modcover.com/



edit:
I have ordered 1x PCI-E x16 and 2x RAM slot covers in black and also a plug for my laptops HDMI port and SD reader.
User avatar
Beardroid91
Hot Wheels
Hot Wheels
Posts: 4411
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 5:38 pm
Location: Denmark

Just saw a build log video were a guy said that you had to be aware of the flow direction in EK GPU blocks due to the jet-plate design, so i have just had a look at my EK block on my GTX 970 G1, and it seems i have been doing it wrong, as in the loop config i have now it pushes the water backwards through the jet-plate, so i must be leaving a ton of cooling performance on the table, as the water flows worse backwards it would seem even though EK claim it doesn't matter hints why that don't openly say which is the optimal flow direction, but it is quite clear that is does matter.

The red line is my current and the green line is the optimal flow direction:

Image

I'll have have to change it for the new loop config, as my goal is to optimize my cooling config for my hardware, as i have made alot of mistakes in the current loop... So need to fix it all soon. But worst of all is this tight tube that is bend very hard, i think i lose alot off pump pressure due to it maybe kinking abit.
2015-10-10 16.31.17.jpg
So with the radiator, GPU flow and pump/res changes in the loop then i might see a huge load water temp change as my water gets about 35*c while during the torture test called The Crew, so i think it will be possible to knock off 5-8*c of my water temp.
User avatar
MadManCK
Admin
Admin
Champion
Champion
Posts: 14086
Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:17 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Contact:

I never knew you mounted the CPU flow in the wrong direction. I thought that was obvious. Water is pressed in 2 directions from the intake. But EK should include better build instructions as well. As direction is indeed important with their cool blocks.

:geek:
PC Player Image TDU, GRID, Assetto Corsa, pCars, NCG, The Crew, Dirt, Forza: MadManCK Clubs: TDU2: Luny's Fair Friends (VP-Exec), GRID AS: TDUDT (Pres) DT-Racing Team: Team Leader

Image Eden Games Can Kiss My Mustang
User avatar
Beardroid91
Hot Wheels
Hot Wheels
Posts: 4411
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 5:38 pm
Location: Denmark

MadManCK wrote:I never knew you mounted the CPU flow in the wrong direction. I thought that was obvious. Water is pressed in 2 directions from the intake. But EK should include better build instructions as well. As direction is indeed important with their cool blocks.

:geek:
* GPU

And yea me neither, i read the waterblock manual twice when i installed it on the GPU, but nowhere did it say that you had to use one or the other port, but it seems to work fine enough as it is now, but i'll change it just to be sure.
User avatar
Beardroid91
Hot Wheels
Hot Wheels
Posts: 4411
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 5:38 pm
Location: Denmark

Hmm i think one of my Noctua F12 fans is dying, it has started to vibrate a lot, so to fix that i put a heavy stone on top of the fan grill and then it was silent and vibrating free again.

I also disconnected my rear fan as it was making negative airflow and sucking in to much dust, and also being to noisy for my trail run of low RPM fan profiles, and it is just a faint hum when i sit less than a meter away from it, and the water temp is 24-25*c on idle and stil 35*c on load.

My biggest headache is the D5 pump speed, as it vibrates and makes a high pitched sound at some RPM's and at other it is dead silent, i have it at 45% now if go up another 2-4% it vibrates and if i go down 2-4% it makes the high pitched sound, 45% pump speed is 1850 RPM which is enough for idle.

But i'm actually happy enough that i can run a 3000 RPM fan at 725 RPM without it running strange, i have the 3 3000 RPM connected to a super cheap PWM fan hub which cost me less that 10 euro and so far it works flawlessly.
User avatar
MadManCK
Admin
Admin
Champion
Champion
Posts: 14086
Joined: Thu Sep 13, 2012 10:17 pm
Location: Amsterdam
Contact:

Maybe you need to clean out everything when you do the planned maintenance on your loop. Dust or an over tightened fan screw can cause vibrations.
Keeping the pump at 45% is probably more than enough for a good circulation. But some vibration dampers might solve a lot of your issues.
PC Player Image TDU, GRID, Assetto Corsa, pCars, NCG, The Crew, Dirt, Forza: MadManCK Clubs: TDU2: Luny's Fair Friends (VP-Exec), GRID AS: TDUDT (Pres) DT-Racing Team: Team Leader

Image Eden Games Can Kiss My Mustang
User avatar
Beardroid91
Hot Wheels
Hot Wheels
Posts: 4411
Joined: Thu Nov 29, 2012 5:38 pm
Location: Denmark

MadManCK wrote:Maybe you need to clean out everything when you do the planned maintenance on your loop. Dust or an over tightened fan screw can cause vibrations.
Keeping the pump at 45% is probably more than enough for a good circulation. But some vibration dampers might solve a lot of your issues.
True, should be able to do the maintenance at the end of the month as it is getting warm enough to work it in the garage.

And i think you are right about the over tightened fan screws as it is one of the fans that is holding the 240 rad in place, but i could just keep the stone on it for now as i can't see it anyway.

And yes the pump is strong enough, though it has to push through alot of block rads and a slightly kinked tube, but that should be fixed pretty soon.

Next headache is how to clean the GPU and CPU block, do you think i use soapy water to clean the inside stuff out while the block is on the GPU ? Or just flush it with tape water ?
Post Reply

Return to “PC”