Got a new rig to show off or just want help with the latest Tech, if it’s for PC this is the place.
User avatar
By Beardroid91
Rank: Petrol Head
#39249
Well to pick a new topic then i can't say i'm to happy with my watercooling setup, as the motherboard's control software and W10 doesn't work well together, so it shots down or the W10 forgets to reopen it when the pc wakes up for sleep mode, happens 1/5 wake-ups, so i have to manually restart the program to get my fans and pump to run silent again - which is starting to annoy me.

Also there is the constant fear of a deadly leak in the system, something i'm terrified about, as it is not a cheap pc to replace.

And because of those things i have the urge to take it apart and get back to CLC cooling and stock air cooling on the GPU, but watercooling parts doesn't hold their value well, but i'm considering it as temps were not as good as i expected them to be, but temps, as a 280mm CLC cooler would cool the 4790K as well as the loop i have now.

But i will say this, it was a fun but very expensive experience to try, not sure i'll do it again, as one of my mates in Belgium has a Skylake 6500K that idles at 22*c as room temp with a Gelid one fan cpu cooler, my cpu idles at 28*c and 23*c in a cold room, so that in it self renders my investment obs-elite, also idle sounds wasn't good too as the watercooling pump always hums in the background.

To say i regret doing it would not be true, i loved the challenge of taking my PC skills to the next level, but i'm just not sure the grass was really that much greener on the other side.

Well topic changed :mrgreen:
User avatar
By MadManCK
Rank: Site Admin
#39250
Yeah, maybe time to open a dedicated topic about all kinds of water cooling solutions. I know my next build will have a custom water cooling setup. But right now the H110i still does an excellent job on the OC 2700K at 4.2, keeping it below 60 degrees under load.

There are plenty of ways to make the PC more silent. Water cooling is one of them, all depending on type of radiators, fans and pump. To make the pump totally silent takes some effort, but can be done. Also depending on the sensitivity of your ears. Because when the rest is more quiet, you start to hear other things more clearly.

The temp of the devils canyon is also due to bad Intel glue. But as long as it does not cook over 70 under load, it does a good job.
And your rig has plenty of headroom to add a second GFX for example. Optimizing the loop is always work in progress. Water cooling solutions do take more maintenance. But i think they also look way cooler than normal air coolers, even if there are some crazy ones as well.

The triple fan cooler is one of the best after market coolers there are. And you are also spoiled with the Megahalem, which is top tier air cooling for the CPU. Those are hard to beat, even with custom water loops.

As long as you do not over tighten the bolts and keep your water loop in shape there is not much to worry about. You just need to exchange the fluids once every 2 years or so.

Maybe you need a dedicated control solution for the water loop. There are very cool ones that are totally separate from the MB controls.
Problem is, that a separate solution will cost a lot, just like all water cooling solutions are expensive.
I have had similar fan control profile fails with MB from different brands on W7, W8 and W10, so it is not just windows related. But your profiles should load during boot, independent of the OS.

During long game sessions in the Summer, your rig will stay cooler than on just air for sure. Allowing higher clock speeds for the GFX and CPU, including under heavy gaming. The extreme OC settings and custom voltage profiles will probably bring the standard cooling solutions on their knees. Water is much better.

You can manually set the pump speed at a low setting. With your cooling surface it will most likely not increase the loop temp a lot, but will kill some of the noise.
User avatar
By Beardroid91
Rank: Petrol Head
#39252
Heh true Mad, i think you just move the last post and yours over to a new PC Watercooling thread, as it is a huge topic with endless sub topics and issues etc.

But yes you're totally right about my watercooling it is overkill - but i feel am not getting everything out of it, so i might have to go [ Pump > 360 rad > CPU > 240 rad > GPU > Res. ] to get the full potential as the huge copper block on the GPU is about 30-35*c during game load and the water entering the CPU is heated up by that as the pump isn't running full speed all of the time due to the pump vibrating alot.

But running this OP setup only lowed the CPU 4-6*C and didn't change the GPU temp, but yes overclocking headroom is a huge benefit, but if it is worth the cost of buying the watercooling parts that i don't know, i have my doubts.

Also i have 2 key areas i watch regularly, the the reused 90* fitting and the tubing between the 240 rad and the 360 rad, it has a bad and tight bend, i fear the tubing could pop out of the compression fitting when the soft tubing has been heat cycled a couple of tusind times - but who knows... i hope it lasts until i figure out the next tubing upgrade for my loop.

Also a 360 rad with lower fin count would be nice, as the 360 rad is getting doesn't and i think the fans strugles to push air through it when they only running 500 RPM.

The Jayz2Cents watercooling bug is a bad one, especially for your wallet.
User avatar
By MadManCK
Rank: Site Admin
#39253
High density fin radiators are best performers, but also require high static pressure to function best. You can run the fans at 1200rpm without substantial noise. That will be enough to push the air more forceful through the fins.
It is all about noise vs performance. But with your massive cooling surface, it should be posible to get an almost inaudible system.

Maybe focus a bit on some extra isolation pads. Cheapest solution to cancel more noise and also easy to apply. :idea:

The pump might be more tricky, taking the way it is mounted in consideration. Rubber isolation mounts can remove some of the vibrations. But than you need to disconect the pump from the rad mount. Don't know if you have enough space to work with. If you mount it on the ground of the case, it is more easy to get some of the vibrations out.
User avatar
By Beardroid91
Rank: Petrol Head
#39257
You're right about that, but i high density radiators also have the problem of gather dust build up faster, but if i rearrange the tubing so it is not about looks all about performance then i might gain some better temp. But then again higher pump RPM might help in that regard too.

But i tightened the the mounting clamp around the D5 pump, it might have been to tight to allow the rudder to do it's trick, but it is a massive job of taking the pump/res. out as it is a heavily integrated part.

But do you think just adding 4 rubber rings to the mount of the radiator would actually help, considering the weight that is put on them?

If i would bottom mougt the pump then the reservoir top might not fit, also i don't know if the floor holes in the case lines up with pump/res. mount. But mounting more losely has it up and downsides.

But this is a headache i can think about till the next water change which is due in about 4-5 mounts, or when it gets warm enough to work on it in the garage, i already have more of the coolant i use in the system, but the priority now is to figure out the best cooling performing tubing layout.
User avatar
By MadManCK
Rank: Site Admin
#39258
The rubber rings can prevent the vibration to be carried over to the radiator that acts like a large soundboard. But only do this if you can easy dissassemble and reassemble the pump to the rad. It is a tight space.
And it is no miracle solution. All i know is that if you use the rubber mounts and vibration pads throughout your build, it will be a lot quieter than it is now. Only do this if you plan to rearrange things anyway. Then you can make a fresh start with the same parts. It will probably be mounted a lot faster, now you know what you are doing. Adding some silicon rings or rubber mounts, in combination with some isolation pads throughout your case, is a simple and relatively cheap solution.
The fact you can hear your pump also means that the rest is very quiet already. :mrgreen:

It helps to show pics and schedules of your build. Maybe others read this as well. :D
User avatar
By Beardroid91
Rank: Petrol Head
#39260
2015-10-12 18.13.25.jpg
I guess it could be mounted on the floor, but not sure if there is enough room for the PSU cables.
User avatar
By MadManCK
Rank: Site Admin
#39262
Maybe you can use one of those vibration "rings" between the pump mount and the rad, called noise absorbers. They are meant for fans, but it might also be a simple solution to reduce vibrations of the pump.

Image
User avatar
By Beardroid91
Rank: Petrol Head
#39264
Great idea I have a ton of tons from a silent mod for my old Antec P183 so I could use those when I update the water loop :)
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