Official Wheel settings thread for the crew

[MadManCK]

Most important setting in the Crew menu is to move all the sensitivity sliders to the max value for wheel users.
Leave the normal controller menu for what it is.

This is to get optimal linear operation. If you want to "build up" the brakes, you can move the slider to the middle position. Linear operation, however, gives the most direct control. It is shown by a straight line in the menu graphs.
The same applies for the clutch operation. If you want it to repond directly, make it as linear as possible.

For the individual wheel setup, like the Logitech profiler, you can disable "centering", as The Crew has real FFB.
Setting the FFB strength in the Crew menu too high can cause some wheels to overclock the FFB, resulting in jerking of the wheel. So the default 70% setting is probably best for most wheels.

[Ryzza5]

If you're finding cars are a little unresponsive to turn in with 900 degrees rotation/sensitivity - I've found that 670 degrees works well for me after playing around with it for a while. I can turn it up a little more on country roads but for city racing you don't want it to be too high otherwise getting around tight turns is quite a chore.

[MadManCK]

I use 540 degrees for most racing purposes. Maybe too nervous for a lot of players. But it is the native rotation for GT Track cars and gives me the most control.

All wheel settings on the Fanatec wheel are left at 100 (default) as the native support is already very good for the CSW.



Now we have to get Tixier to support Fanaleds for turning my rig into a christmas tree during driving.

[Ryzza5]

You're probably onto something there, as I have occasionally noticed not turning the wheel quite enough to avoid parked cars after taking a corner, or when battling with the 5-0. I do enjoy the extra rotation on B-roads though.

[Jeragger]

I have a sparco wheel on my Logitech g27. No issues with rotation when using a larger wheel. Google chilicoke for adapters.

[Fulysic]

i run 540 upto 630 like MadmanCK depends on the game and car im driving, but the crew im running 540 with 330mm touring car wheel with DSD carbon fiber paddles, DSD wheel adapter and FFB motor booster mod.

Overall its a blast to drive easy as well I have FFB slider nearly all way to the left

Only issue I found for one of the cars my H-gate is one gear short on the 7 speed i have many ways to solve that

Also got DSD button boxes up and assigned well one any way

Bit of a side note when I alt+tab in and out of the game sometimes i loose all FFB and have to go open profiler to get it back or move game slider just a bit and save

Seriously considering standalone E-brake setup for this game one of those games i can enjoy using the E-brake and just drift all day currently E-brakes set to my paddle shifter and its a blast in snow region

[MadManCK]

Seriously considering standalone E-brake setup for this game

That's probably my next needless purchase as well. Pressing a button just doesn't do it for me anymore.

DSD has some awesome stuff. But for that E-brake price you can buy shares of the Empire State Building
I will probably grab the one from Fanatec.

Too bad logitech never builds a successor for the succesful G25/27 series. Bad decision IMO.

I have not seen any Thrustmaster settings here.
I drove with a T500RS in Lyon and it was awesome with the Crew.
And the TX1 is native supported as there is a special edition that comes with the wheel. And we used it for a demo during the Route 909 event.

It would be nice if some Thrustmaster user shares the settings here as well.

[Ryzza5]

Maybe one day I'll get an ebrake, but I already have enough 'pointless equipment' such as the ButtKicker and TrackIR. As great as BK is I haven't actually used it in a little while nor tried it with the crew. It worked very well with TDU1 so I'll have to try it out.

[Karu62]

I made a find a couple days ago that I have been testing. I decided to see if I could make adjustments that would let me use the FFB strength sliders at maximum, I noticed that lowering the sensitivity also reduced the strength.

using the Ford GT as my test vehicle I eventually settled in on -17 clicks from maximum (full right). 17 is the point where the bumps in the road stop jerking the wheel and things smooth out. it is also the point where you feel the weight of the car and even the throttle response to the differential.

if I could get someone to test this and see what you think. 17 is a good base point for most cars, with minor tweaks up or down, but not more than one click.

*edit*

upon further testing, I decided to see how the setting effected the steering lock. I know in my car around town, it takes about 3/4 of a turn to make a left from a stop, depending on speed. I went into the game to see how the wheel turns for a left and right corner turn.

as it turns out, the -17 setting in the sensitivity puts the turn radius in just the right place, it is no coincidence everything works at that setting.

[Karu62]

- 17 click and full strength FFB was close, but not perfect. with some more tweaking I hit the sweet spot, and sweet it is.

my final settings have turned out to be -18 sensitivity and -3 strength. when I finally hit these, everything just woke up, on all cars, even the spec cars.

here is a video I made showing how to set your wheel, for people with wheels other than DFGT's. it should work for any wheel.

[youtube][/youtube]

with these settings, the handling is almost simulation quality.

a short run in the canyon with the Charger showing the new settings. it handles so smoothly the run looks boring.

[youtube][/youtube]