PC Water Cooling

[MadManCK]

There are some other "tricks" as well, like removing 2 of the 4 dimms. Sometimes motherboards do not like all slots filled.

All PSU cables are plugged in all the way. I checked that. Very hard to reach with the little space left. And the motherboard does get current. It lights up. PSU is fine.

I will go for a walk, deliver a 1kg raw Parma ham and get some fresh air. Clear the head.

[Beardroid91]

Nice, except it is cold as ballz up here in Denmark, -6,8*c doing the day is nuts... plus it is windy outside too, but little to no snow.

But yes now that i remember it i had a similar issue with my ASUS ROG Ranger VII motherboard, when i put in 4 dims of ram it wouldn't power one at all, as it was coded for being a only 2 dims with dual channel, which is why i had to return 2x4 GB ram and sell my other 2x4 GB ram and buy 2x8 GB ram sticks instead, and since then no hiccups.

So maybe try with just the 2 sticks in the PC, you can sell the 2 others quickly as the ram prices are still messed up.

[Beardroid91]

@Mad

Wasn't it Green LED Bitfenix Spectre Pro fans you had in the basement of the Cosmos ?

I'm looking into some new fans as, the old 140mm Fractal fans from the Define S isn't strong enough to pull enough air through the very dens front filter on the Meshify C, i kind of want to get 2 new 140mm fans for it, the currently the Bitfenix Spectre Pro seems to be the best in air flow, pressure and noise, as a decent value, but just want to know how good of a fan it really is.

I got also get a twin pack of Corsair SP140 LED fans for the price of one Bitfenix fan.

[MadManCK]

These green led Bitfenix fans are very strong static pressure fans. At full speed they are noisy. But they have no issues moving air through the thick 60mm black ice extreme radiator. I have not tried them with lower speeds yet. But i do not think there is a very big difference in moving air with the (slightly boring) Vardars.

Most people want the new RGB led fans now.

If you can get 2 quality fans for that money, it might be a good offer. In p/p you do not need very high rpm fans.
Look at noise levels at max speed. The Corsair led fans get up to 30dB, but you can run them much slower and the dB alone does not tell the whole story, as the pitch can annoy you or not.

So i would grab the 1.200rpm version and not the 1.400 one for a 140mm fan. They call them silent as well

There are no really bad fans anymore. At least not in the webshops i look. And with A-brands, you can not go wrong.

[MadManCK]

I did the BIOS Flash, tried to boot with and without 2 modules. So far no results. It is a bit strange, that no power shows on the front panel. It is plugged in properly.

So, right now, i'm out of options. Maybe i will re-check the wiring, but this build is not very rewarding so far.

[Bez]

Just a thought...
Did you turn on the power supply switch located on the back of the PSU? Is the power plug on a switch? If it is, is the switch turned on? Is there a GFI circuit on the plug-in? If there is, make sure it isn't tripped.

Also.
The switch on the PSU in the on position? Did you hook up the case power button correctly?

Worth a look.

[MadManCK]

I used the same PSU to fill and test my waterloop. All fans work etc. But that is with a "shortcut" plug.

The Motherboard gets power, leds light up. Including RGB effects from the board itself.
Power button on the motherboard is red glowing.
I will go over some trouble shooting later this weekend. For some reason parts of the Mobo do not get power.

I can barely reach the rails from the PSU, but they seem to be plugged in OK.

It can be a simple thing, or this Motherboard is not good. I heard many have been returned in the first months, from all brands. In some cases 30% were sent back. But normally ASUS does test their stuff, before it leaves the factory.
Where they were quick with the new CPU release, the chipset was not really at the same level yet. The manufacturers had 3 weeks to make the first BIOS, if you believe these stories.

If the board is bust, i will have to get a new one, or send it RMA, but it is a Year old now....
I can get a better board with more features and enough Internal USB connectors... Or start all over again with Intel based stuff.

When i have to dismount my waterloop, it basically means starting all over again. That also opens up new options.

For me the most important thing was finishing the loop. And see if my config actually worked. It does. So that is a good thing. But i also need a working machine over there.....

Only thing i can blame myself for really, is not doing a dry test first. I actually forgot, due to all things going on. But it is something you should always do with every new build, not just watercooled ones.

Edit; after a quick checkup and cutting loose the zip-ties that hold all cables together at the back, the Motherboard woke up for the first time.
It has power now and all control lights are operational.

Also cool to see, is that the RGB stuff i installed, sync nicely with each other and the motherboard. Something that is not always the case in many builds. The fan grille, light chain and onboard RGB lights go through a cycle by default. Also including UV, which makes the cooling fluid light up a bit (UV reactive lime green).

So, there might be some life in this machine after all. BIOS flash did work obviously.
Still no screen though, the board shows error code 8. But at least i'm getting somewhere now.

[MadManCK]

OMG, Error Code 8 means that the CPU is not working.

From what i read, it might have to do with the EKWB mounting instructions.
So even with a dry test, this would have never shown.

As this is a core build issue, i might have to remove the CPU block and mount it again. Part of the rubber back plate might cause it. That is weird, as rubber does not have condutivity, so why the errors?

From the ROG website;

08 is like 00...means CPU is not working...

Make sure it's seated correctly (including checking cooling is mounted with even pressure) and make sure power is connected/seated correctly...

If you are using an EK block...make sure you have followed instructions to the letter....some are saying the block causes problem only to find they haven't set it up properly...

And of course nothing is shorting back of board

The EK instruction booklet seems to be wrong for AM4.

I purchased an EK-Supremacy block directly from EKWB just so I could get the free AM4 kit with it. Mounted it exactly like the instructions. No boot at all - no fans, no pump, no POST codes, no beep (I attached a PC speaker). I removed all the hardware and attempted boot with minimum system (CPU, GPU, 1 stick RAM). Still nothing.

I read on another forum where a user had boot problems and removed the center portion of the rubber insulator and that fixed their boot problems.

This morning I un-mounted the block, removed the center portion of the rubber insulator, and re-mounted it. Attempted boot with minimum system and it booted. I didn't have a monitor attached, but it went through the POST codes and the status LEDs on the board lit up in order.

I had the exact same problem with the EK-Supremacy block. With the block installed the way the manual calls for, the MB will not post, no beep, no nothing. Eventually I found out through trial and error that the backplate was the issue. I decided to remove the middle portion of the rubber gasket (even though the manual states to leave it on for AMD) and the computer booted and everything was seemingly working. After awhile, the computer crashed and will just show Code 8 on the MB. I really dont understand how a piece of rubber could cause so many issues....

Massive fail from EK, it appears. I remember JayZ2Cents having a back plate issue as well. I might have to check out some of his vids.

I really do not know if i can unmount the CPU block right now. I might have to drain the system and remove the tubes form the CPU block. But i will try to do this, leaving the loop intact first.

This build has more problems than a teenage girl during puberty....

[Beardroid91]

Yea you are not the only one, and it all has to do with the EK Supremacy Evo mount, it is very strange.

http://www.overclock.net/forum/13-amd-g ... ues-4.html

"They are sending me one as well. Does anyone have a photo showing the difference between the old one vs the new one? I haven't even installed my waterblock since I read about the gasket issue before I did. I am just going to wait until I have the new one in hand."

"I got mine today. The difference is it's half as thick."

Thats the same thing i bought.
Supremacy EVO and AM4 monting plate with backplate separately.
Got few hours ago reply from EKWB:
___________________________
Dear customer

Thank you for contacting us.

Boot problems are usually associated with the correctness of the installation procedure. One of the most common mistakes is the incorrect orientation of the metal backplate (the ribbed side must always face away from the motherboard).

The other reason for malfunctioning is usually linked to overtightening the mounting mechanism. However, the Supremacy blocks are designed to prevent this issue.

Very rarely the rubber gasket itself can be the reason for improper operation. It is almost impossible to determine the root cause of this issue, but with the replacement of the rubber gasket, the problem has been solved in all cases so far.

I can offer you this rubber for free if you give me your full name and address and your phone number.

Best regards, Igor
_____________________

So i gave him my adress and hopefully the new rubber will help.

So yea get in touch with EK WB support and have them ship a new gasket to you FOR FREE, or rage at them, it is their fuck up.

[MadManCK]

After i exit my afternoon medidation and be in the zone, i will contact them.
The Marine Platoon with rocket launchers will follow later

At least now i know the source of the problem. And there can always be more...

I did not like having to disassemble the waterblock to begin with. All looked solid when assembled. But obviously the AMD mount is more fragile than Intel's.

And even if i get a new block or backplate for free, i'm reluctant to take everything apart. CPU and coolblock are the first things i do during a new build. Mounting it in a 90 degree angle in a finalized build is not my favorite hobby.

EKWB is the scapegoat for this misery.

EDIT; i tried to tighten and loosen up the screws from the waterblock, but no results. I read from some users that they "fixed" their Code 8 issue that way. And as the replacement is thinner that might work. It did not, in fact, now the motherboard does not light up at all anymore.
So it is definitely CPU mount related. Might be due to a larger die and even force. I also remember it to be slightly out of allignment, so the CPU mount is the source of the system not booting up.